For this technique the colours not in use are carried loosely across the wrong side of work so as not to distort the shape of the stitches being knitted.

1. On a knit row, hold the first colour in your right hand and the second colour in your left hand. Work as normal with the first colour, carrying the second loosely across the wrong side of work.

2. When the second colour is required, insert the right hand needle into the next stitch and draw a loop through from the yarn held in the left hand, carrying the yarn in the right hand loosely across the wrong side until next required.

3. On a purl row, work as usual with the first colour held in the right hand, holding the second colour in the left hand.

If there are more than 6 stitches worked in one colour, cross the yarns over each other on every 3rd or 4th stitch to avoid long, loose strands.

If you find it awkward to hold the yarns in both hands, simply work as usual, dropping the yarn not in use and picking it up again when required, making sure that it is not pulled across the wrong side. Always carry the same colour across the top throughout the row for a neat appearance on the wrong side, and to avoid the yarns becoming twisted.

Using 3 balls of yarn, proceed as follows:

1. Take one ball of yarn and make a slip knot on needle. Holding ends of 2 rem balls in left hand (short ends upwards), wind short ends twice anticlockwise around thumb of left hand. Holding needle with slip knot in right hand, insert needle from bottom to top under the 4 strands on thumb.

2. Using the yarn attached to the slip knot, knit one st in usual manner and slip the 4 strands from thumb. Pull the double yarn firmly to the needle to form a knot.

3. Yarn forward - bring yarn under needle, then over into knitting position again, thus making a st.

4. Wind double yarn twice anticlockwise around the left thumb. Knit one st through double yarn and slip four strands off as before, pulling yarn firmly to needle to make a knot ... 4 sts.

Rep steps 3 and 4 until there are number of sts required.

Break off double yarn, turn and proceed as instructed in patt.

NOTE: The wrong side will now be facing for first row of work.

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Using 3 balls of yarn, proceed as follows:

1. Take one ball of yarn and make a slip knot on needle. Holding ends of 2 rem balls in left hand (short ends upwards), wind short ends twice anticlockwise around thumb of left hand. Holding needle with slip knot in right hand, insert needle from bottom to top under the 4 strands on thumb.

2. Using the yarn attached to the slip knot, knit one st in usual manner and slip the 4 strands from thumb. Pull the double yarn firmly to the needle to form a knot.

3. Yarn forward - bring yarn under needle, then over into knitting position again, thus making a st.

4. Wind double yarn twice anticlockwise around the left thumb. Knit one st through double yarn and slip four strands off as before, pulling yarn firmly to needle to make a knot ... 4 sts.

Rep steps 3 and 4 until there are number of sts required, then rep step 4 again .. odd number of sts. Break off double yarn, turn and proceed as instructed in patt.

Break off double yarn, turn and proceed as instructed in patt.

NOTE: The wrong side will now be facing for first row of work

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This seam will give your handknit a professional finish. Even if you have always used backstitch or oversewn seams, try this method and you will be surprised how easy it is and how much better the seams look and feel.

Mattress stitch should be worked one whole stitch in from the edge. It can even be worked on shaped edges - as you are working from the right side, it is easy to see where you are and to keep the seam neat and straight.

When starting, leave a long end which can be secured by running it back along the edge when the seam is completed. If the seam needs to be undone, simply pull this end, drawing the yarn through the stitches.

1. With right side facing you, lay the two pieces to be joined flat and edge to edge. Thread a knitter’s needle and insert the needle between the edge stitch and the second stitch on the first row. Pass the needle under two rows, then bring it back through to the front.

2. Return to the opposite side and, working under two rows at the same time throughout, repeat this zigzag action always taking the needle under the strands that correspond exactly to the other side, and going into the hole that the last stitch on that side came out of, taking care not to miss any rows.

The mattress stitch stitching should be elastic without being loose - while working keep yarn held firm, not pulling sts too tightly.

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A set of needles consists of 4 (or more) needles with points at each end, used for seamless knitting.
When knitting on a set, divide the stitches roughly equally between 3 of the needles, then use the 4th needle to begin the work.

When the sts on the first needle have been worked, use the now free needle to work the sts on the next needle.

Knitting is done in rounds rather than rows. Do not turn the work but knit around in a circle. Every round is knitted on the right side so ‘every row knit’ forms stocking st.

A set of needles can be replaced by a circular needle of suitable length for working on neckbands, however they are not suitable for crowns of hats.

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1. Cut the required number of strands of yarn 2 - 3 times the length of the finished cord. eg. 4 strands of yarn 100cm long will produce a cord 8 strands thick and approx 40cm long. Knot the strands together at each end, making sure all lengths are equal.

2. Attach one end to a pin, hook or handle, insert a knitting needle through the other end. Turn the knitting needle clockwise until the strands are well twisted.

3. Holding the centre of the cord, place the needle and the hook end together, keeping the cord taut to avoid tangling.

4. Release the centre of the cord so that the two halves twist together. Smooth out any lumps. Knot and trim both ends.

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1. When working from right to left, bring the needle out in the centre of the stitch and take it up and around the head of the stitch from right to left (under the stitch above) as shown.

2. Take the needle back through the centre of the original stitch and out through the centre of the stitch on the left.

3. When working from left to right, bring the needle out in the centre of the stitch and take it up and around the head of the stitch from left to right (instead of from right to left).

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1. To begin, make a slip knot, leaving a length of yarn before the slip knot approx 4 times the required width for the sts cast on. Assessing this measurement takes some practice, but as a general rule allow approx 2.5 metres for an adult’s garment for Back and Front and approx 1 metre for sleeves. Place the slip knot on needle in your right hand. * Wrap yarn end around the left thumb from front to back.

2. Insert the needle upwards through the yarn on the thumb and knit the st in the usual manner.

3. Remove the yarn from thumb and pull yarn slightly to tighten st. Repeat from * until the required number of sts have been cast on (counting the slip knot as one st).

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Pick up the yarn lying between the stitch just worked and the next stitch and place it on the left hand needle, then knit (or purl) into the back of this loop.

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This stitch may used along edges where there is no ribbing, it can also be used as a decorative stitch around pockets, collars etc.

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Make a back stitch, the size of the Bullion Stitch required, and bring the needle out where it first emerged, without pulling right through. Wind the yarn around the point of needle as many times as required. Holding the left thumb on the coiled thread, pull the needle through. Still holding the coiled thread, turn the needle back to where it was inserted and insert in the same place. Pull the needle through.

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12. Chain Stitch

13. Straight Stitch

14. Star Stitch

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15. Cross Stitch

Work across one or two stitches and rows as required, inserting the needle between the stitches to avoid splitting the yarn.

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Bring the needle from the back to the front of the work and wind the yarn several times around the needle according to the size of the knot required. Take the needle back through the same place and draw the yarn through, thus forming a small knot on the right side. If the knot tends to slip through to the wrong side, insert the needle half a stitch further on to avoid this.

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17. Lazy Daisy Stitch

This is a method of working individual chain stitches to form ‘petals’ which can be grouped together to make a ‘flower’ of 4, 5 or more petals.

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18. Satin Stitch

This is used to completely cover an area of knitting without duplicating stitches.

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Stem stitch is worked from left to right, taking small sts across. Always keep the thread below the needle (refer illustration).

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This technique is used to knit garments with blocks of different colours, avoiding the extra bulk of Fair Isle knitting. Usually the pattern includes a graph where the odd numbered rows are knitted from right to left and the wrong side rows are purled from left to right. When using this method, you will need a separate ball for each section of colour. If you need lots of separate balls, it will be easier to wind yarn onto bobbins. Yarn bobbins can be purchased or cut from cardboard.

Only unwind short lengths as required, to prevent tangles. The bobbins hang on the wrong side of your work when not in use. The colour twist method involves twisting the different coloured yarns over each other to prevent holes. Twist the colour to be used underneath and to the right of the colour just used. Always change colours on the wrong side of work so colour change does not show on right side.

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1. Cut a rectangle of card as wide as the required length of the finished tassel. Wind the yarn around the card until the required thickness is reached. Break the yarn, thread through a knitters needle and pass the needle under all the loops. Do not remove needle.

2. Tie the end of the yarn firmly around the loops, remove the card and cut through the loops at the opposite end to the knot.

3. Wind a length of yarn around all the loops 2cm below the fold and fasten securely. Pass the needle through the top and use the end to sew in place. Trim the end neatly.

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1. Decide the size of the Pompon, then cut two circles of card, the diameter of which will be slightly larger than the size of the finished pompon. Cut a smaller hole in the centre of each circle, about half the size of the original diameter.

2. Holding the two circles together, wind the yarn around the ring (using several strands at a time), until the ring is completely covered.

3. Cut all around the outside edge between the two circles using a sharp pair of scissors. Make sure all the yarn has been cut.

4. Separate the two circles slightly, wind a length of yarn between then tie firmly into a knot, leaving sufficient yarn for sewing the pompon in place. Pull the two circles apart and fluff out yarn to cover centre join. Trim as desired.

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Used to join two pieces of knitting without the bulk of a seam. Sts are not cast off but are left on the needles. Place evenly on 2 needles and join following steps 1 to 4 at left.

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Insert needle through fabric one whole stitch in from the edge, wrap yarn around needle (as for knitting) and draw through fabric

Repeat step 1 as many times as required, spacing the number of stitches evenly along the piece of knitting.

All stitches knitted up ready to begin 1st row or round.

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Can you guarantee your finished knit will fit?

As with purchased clothes, not every size 14 (or other size) is the same. So to guarantee your knit will fit, measure a favourite jumper across the chest at underarm (see diagram), multiply the measurement by 2pm, then choose the closest size given as finished measurement in the pattern.

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